Les Virées du Comptoir: inside Cambodia, in search of Kampot’s black gold
By Guillaume, Sourcing & Quality, Le Comptoir & Co
Our “Virées” are culinary journeys to regions rich in fine farming traditions. We set off on them every year to uncover treasures of flavour and elegance.
Date: November 2025
Why is Kampot still the world benchmark for black pepper?
Renowned for its rare aromatic notes and flawless appearance, Kampot pepper has been protected since 2009 by a strict Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) overseen by the KPPA (Kampot Pepper Promotion Association).
Unfortunately, environmental conditions are starting to affect the harvest in complex ways: the record drought of late 2024 wiped out many pepper vines in the region. The result? Falling production: 95 tonnes in 2025, compared with an average of 130 tonnes. This puts heavy pressure on supply and is driving up the price of this pepper.
In this context, going into the field to secure volumes, audit processes and check traceability is not an option, it is a necessity.
That is the job of Guillaume, Le Comptoir & Co’s Buyer-Explorer.
Stage 1: Phnom Penh – Auditing our new partner
Meeting local ambition and diversification
“In Phnom Penh, I meet Hippolyte Deruaz, who runs the local operations of a French family business founded in 2018.”
(Guillaume)
What makes this new partner strong: close ties with two major certified Kampot producers, combined with a well-run import network for rare berries (green Sichuan, red Sichuan, Timut berries) as well as Asian teas and infusions.
Being on site allowed our Buyer-Explorer to visit the facility and check the quality control of the products. He walked through the warehouses and the packing areas, all equipped with automatic bagging machines and stainless-steel sorting tables.
Together, we looked at adding new references to our catalogue to offset the global shortage of pepper.
Stage 2: Kampot – Inside the plantation and the secrets of salted green pepper
A deep dive with our long-standing supplier
“Heading south to Kampot province, I join Seila, founder of Paradise Garden, the only 100% Cambodian company among the six leading exporters of the appellation. Paradise Garden relies on a solid network of around thirty certified independent smallholders.”
(Guillaume)
Paradise Garden is the leading specialist in salted green pepper (8 tonnes processed every year). During our visit, we observed each step of a unique and closely guarded craft:
- Early harvest (November to January): the berries are picked while still milky, that is, tender green and full of juice.
- Destemming & washing: carried out the very next day.
- Fermentation, a trade secret: 15 days in barrels with the house’s own water-to-salt ratio.
- Highly technical cold drying: spinning, then 6 hours of drying on stainless-steel tables in a temperature-controlled room, with salt added.
- Packing: sealed storage at a controlled temperature to keep the berries crunchy and fresh.
For traditional dried peppers (black, red, white), compliance with the PGI specifications is absolute:
- No pesticides and no chemical fertilisers.
- Quick blanching: to wash, sanitise and set the colour (especially on red pepper).
- Hand sorting: a meticulous process on stainless-steel tables, where 20% to 50% of the berries are rejected according to strict visual and size criteria.
Behind the scenes of sourcing: separating fact from fiction
Travelling on site also opens your eyes to market abuses. With prices rising and local controls sometimes weak, some traders do not hesitate to blend or sell pepper from the north of the country under the “Kampot” name.
Our commitment: for every lot, we require both official certificates: the COD (Certificate of Delivery, issued to the farmer) and the COC (Certificate of Conformity, issued for export).
It is the only guarantee of 100% authentic, traceable Kampot pepper.
Outlook & new products for our customers
From this field trip, we are bringing back several strategic opportunities to enrich our offer and secure our supply.
Continuing the Kampot Pure Origine partnership strengthens our supply of black, red, white and salted green pepper with our two key partners.
This trip also introduced us to the Mondolkiri region (northern highlands), which produces pepper of excellent organoleptic quality at a more affordable cost. It is a very good option we are studying to complete our range and meet specific industrial or foodservice needs.
The possible arrival of exceptional Asian berries (Timut, Sichuan) and of infusions sourced directly from the estate also opens up new commercial horizons.
Demanding quality, passionate people, guaranteed traceability.
